Sun Feb 15 13:35:59 UTC 2026: ### Mumbai’s Culinary Identity: A Tapestry Woven by Migration and History

The Story:
A new book, “In the Beginning There Was Bombay Duck – A Food History of Mumbai,” explores the diverse culinary landscape of Mumbai, shaped by centuries of migration, commerce, and cultural exchange. Author Proniti Datta highlights the contributions of early communities like the Pathare Prabhus, Kolis, and East Indians, whose culinary traditions are often underrepresented in today’s dining scene. The book delves into the origins of iconic Mumbai foods like laadi pav, tracing its roots to Goan migrants who learned baking from the Portuguese. Datta also emphasizes the role of pop-ups and supper clubs in revitalizing lesser-known cuisines and fostering culinary innovation in the city.

Key Points:

  • Mumbai’s food scene is a melting pot shaped by migration, power, commerce, class, and ingredient availability.
  • The laadi pav arrived with Goan migrants in the 18th and 19th centuries.
  • Pathare Prabhu cuisine, featuring unique dishes like banana cake with shrimp, remains largely unknown.
  • The concept of “native” food in Mumbai is complex, as even iconic dishes like vada pav have roots in Portuguese and Goan influences.
  • Iranis played a crucial role in popularizing pav in Mumbai after learning baking from Goans.
  • Pop-ups and supper clubs are vital for showcasing under-represented cuisines like Pathare Prabhu and Konkani Muslim food.

Key Takeaways:

  • Mumbai’s culinary identity is a dynamic and evolving process, constantly shaped by new communities and influences.
  • The notion of “native” food in a city like Mumbai is inherently fluid and inclusive.
  • The book underscores the importance of preserving and celebrating the culinary traditions of early communities.
  • Pop-up dining and social media are playing a critical role in the preservation of these culinary traditions.

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